In ‘Get Your Greens’, an ongoing series in line with Earth Day, British Vogue explores how the industry is advancing towards a greener future.
The moment you step into Annie’s Ibiza, any lingering post-lockdown anxiety instantly melts away. The sumptuous, gold velvet-lined emporium is brimming with flamboyant handpicked vintage. Annie Doble’s world holds a profusion of colour, sequins and feathers, all accentuated by the dreamy wildflower window display, and myriad bouquets in vintage vases by Ellie Hartley Flowers that dot every available surface. Her new boutique in the heart of Soho – a spin-off of her infamous original on Ibiza itself – has just reopened its doors, after being forced to close around 10 days after launch due to Covid.
Doble can trace her passion for fashion, and specifically vintage, back to childhood. She says she was five when she first asked her grandmother for a subscription to British Vogue, and the weight of the 23 years’ worth of issues she stores in a room over her parents’ kitchen has caused their ceiling to crack. In her early teens, she says, she’d lie awake at night worrying that she wasn’t doing enough to save the planet. It became her biggest drive, and the inspiration behind the first vintage boutique she opened aged just 25. “I’m obsessed with history and love finding the story behind each piece. It’s what excites me.”
When Beyoncé takes on suiting, she doesn’t settle for standard. Music’s queen loves to wear blazer dresses and fitted suits, but the pieces she and her stylist, Zerina Akers, select boast unique embellishments that set them apart. Case in point: when the star updated her Instagram this afternoon with a glimpse of the Las Vegas getaway she and husband Jay-Z enjoyed back in March, she revealed a sleek suit with a throwback detail.
Area’s chain logo suit debuted on the brand’s spring/summer 2020 runway back in September of 2019. The opening statement of the show made a splash when model Nella Ngingo strutted out in the oversized white jacket and matching trousers covered in an array of nameplate necklaces. A combination of a classic silhouette and a streetwise accessory popularised by Black and Latinx communities in the late ’70s and embraced in hip hop culture, the look encapsulated the mash-up of past and present that inspired Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczy’s collection.
The Beyoncé version was, naturally, customised to feature the singer’s name prominently. Her Area suit featured gold charms bearing her name on its lapel and scattered across the jacket’s front. She’s already a fan of jewellery bearing her moniker– fans may remember the “’Yonce” necklace from Basile and Pape Bespoke Jewelry that she wore back in 2017 in her eponymous visual album and social media posts. On Instagram, she updated with close-ups of every angle and an alternate look at the nameplates, this time worn as layered chains.
The collaboration everyone needed but no one saw coming has arrived: Lady Gaga x Dom Pérignon. The essence of celebration, the pop powerhouse called upon her longtime creative collaborator Nicola Formichetti and photographer Nick Knight, who has been shooting the performer since her Monster Ball days, to make a mesmerising campaign showcasing how Gaga does champagne. The message? “Fantasy is one of humankind’s highest achievements,” asserts Knight of the side of whimsy Gaga serves up with her fizz.
“Dom Pérignon will not make a vintage unless it’s right, unless the harvest lives up to their aesthetic ideal, that sort of determination and exigency is very similar to how hard Gaga will push herself artistically,” adds Knight, who has nothing but praise for the “Stupid Love” singer’s bubbly vision. “She always pushes herself to the maximum, never gives up, and will work until she drops. She has total 100 per cent devotion to attaining the best image; I cannot ask for more than that!”
The energising images of Gaga posing with her Dom Pérignon Rosé within the “Queendom”, her frothy pink universe filled with fabulous candy floss-coloured fashion and exquisitely pale champagne, have already gone down a storm with the Little Monsters, Gaga’s dedicated fan base who have been raising emoji glasses via Instagram. “Nicola describes [the campaign] as the essence of Dom, mixed with me, warped in time,” asserts Gaga of the unabashedly bold way to celebrate the 12-year process of harvesting the pinot noir grape into a truly “magnetic” rosé.
While awards season has looked very different this year, with many of the screen’s biggest stars attending virtually amid the pandemic, there have still been some stand-out sartorial moments. One that delighted the fashion crowd was the romantic Miu Miu gown worn by Emma Corrin for the Golden Globes last month – which The Crown star has now donated to a charity raffle.
Corrin triumphed at the awards in the ‘Best Actress – Television Series Drama’ category for bringing Diana, Princess of Wales to life on screen, portraying the late royal in Season 4 of The Crown. She donned a suitably regal, custom-made dress for the occasion; a velvet, jewel-studded Miu Miu confection with a whimsical white ruff collar. Twinkling Cartier jewels and bold eyeliner completed the striking effect.
Now Harper’s Bazaar reports that the gown is to be sold in a charity raffle in aid of The Survivors Trust, an umbrella agency for specialist services helping victims of rape and sexual abuse in the UK. Corrin told the magazine: ‘It’s a very strange thing, that so much work is put into creating a custom outfit for one evening, albeit an amazing occasion… I wanted the outfit to keep on giving and with the raffle it means that it wasn’t just made for one evening – it will make a difference and give a charity the money it needs to provide crucial help.’
With warmer days looming, many of us are more eager than ever to experiment with our hair. The latest phenomenon? Flaming copper locks. Early lockdown boredom resulted in many of us reaching for the scissors for a DIY cut. Fast-forward a year later and while the autumn/winter 2021 runway shows indicate the return of blunt-cut fringes, slicked-back hair and nostalgic braids courtesy of Louis Vuitton, Prada and Simone Rocha, we’re still stuck on that spring/summer 2021 fiery favourite.
Of course, stars such as SZA and FKA twigs have dabbled with red-hot hair for years. But new recruits include Jorja Smith, Steve Lacy and Gigi Hadid, who in between looking after her six-month-old daughter Khai and making her sizzling runway comeback for Versace, had time to try out the latest hair craze (perhaps inspired by sister Bella’s trial run).
The Golden Globes 2021 is missing one all-important element of the Hollywood awards ceremony: the traditional red carpet. Coronavirus long ago put paid to the prospect of seeing nominees emerge from a convoy of limos to pose for an army of paps in person. But 12 months into the pandemic, the A-list has learned a thing or two about creating a virtual fashion moment. Elle Fanning, in the running for Best Actress – TV Series, Comedy or Musical for her performance in The Great, kicked things off with a mic drop of an Instagram post, wearing an ice-blue Gucci gown and Fred Leighton jewellery.
Elle Fanning in Gucci
Nominee Elle Fanning chose a slinky Gucci dress worthy of an Old Hollywood siren, complete with dramatic cape detail and a pooling train. The actor enlisted photographer Gareth Gatrell from the set of her show The Great to capture her ice-blue gown and Fred Leighton jewels from all angles for Instagram.
The plus side of the remote red carpet? No risk of stumbling in your Valentino mega-platforms. Cynthia Erivo chose Look 30 from Pierpaolo Piccioli’s spring/summer 2021 couture runway, a sculptural apple-green dress complete with opera gloves and vertigo-inducing silver heels.
It was a big night for Andra Day, who was named Best Actress – Motion Picture, Drama for her performance as Billie Holiday in The United States Vs Billie Holiday. She dressed accordingly, opting for a pale grey Chanel gown with a latticework bodice, fresh from the spring/summer 2021 couture runway.
Two trends are in glorious tandem in 2021: revelling in nostalgia, and the rise of the “photo dump”. As a Covid-19 world continues to turn, it’s no surprise that we’re taking a moment or two to look back at past pictures that simply make us feel happy. And Gigi Hadid is the latest to join in on the action.
Over the weekend, while baby Khai was taking a nap, the new-gen super used the time to experiment with the “post a picture from this date” function on Instagram Stories. From vintage hauls to visits to Moschino HQ to her pregnancy food cravings, Hadid immersed herself in snaps from days gone by. From August 2020, she shared a photo of herself in baby Khai’s nursery ahead of her daughter’s arrival, and from December, we got to see new parents Gigi and Zayn proudly taking their little one out for a stroll.
The last year, it’s said, was a rocky one for the couple: West launched a bid for president while also struggling with bipolar disorder. After he made a series of erratic statements, Kardashian took to social media to ask for the public’s understanding. “We as a society talk about giving grace to the issue of mental health as a whole, however we should also give it to the individuals who are living with it in times when they need it the most,” she wrote. “I kindly ask that the media and public give us the compassion and empathy that is needed so that we can get through this.” Come December, outlets began to report that they were essentially living separate lives. “They are just not on the same page when it comes to their future as a family,” a source toldPeople. “And Kim is okay with it.”
Celine muse Kaia Gerber made her only runway appearance of the spring/summer 2021 season at Hedi Slimane’s Monaco track-and-field show spectacular. Gerber made one of the first exits inside the grand Stade Louis II wearing a youth-imbued street-style ensemble that looked like an elevated version of the clothes she nips from pilates to home in LA. The 30 models who followed the youngest member of the Crawford dynasty around the racetrack were almost Kaia clones, wearing all manner of Celine-ified high-top trainers, crop tops, boyish blazers and denim-shorts. It was a savvy move from Slimane, a designer who is a youth culture obsessive, to book Kaia, a 19-year-old at the heart of fashion’s new generation, as an exclusive.
Four months down the line, the spring/summer 2021 campaign images, which Slimane shot in Monaco, keep the buzz around the Kaia-infused collection alight. A serious-looking Gerber is pictured wearing her Gen-Z uniform by a palm tree-lined pool and lounging in a hotel suite. With her logo cap pulled down over her sunglasses, the impression is very much off-duty It-girl goes incognito to evade the paparazzi on the glamorous French Riviera.
Loved by Hollywood and the artistic counterculture alike, Tilda Swinton takes delight in Chanel’s spring/summer ’21 collection, and discusses fashion, performance and the avant-garde with playwright Jeremy O Harris. Photographs by Nikolai von Bismarck. Styling by Jerry Stafford.
For years I’ve dreamt of my first meeting with Tilda – an actor who, I think we can all agree, has no need for a last name. In the fantasies of my youth, when I first discovered her work while devouring Derek Jarman’s, I imagined that our meeting would take place at a dinner party. It would be filled with an eclectic mix of individuals from the literary, art and fashion worlds, and I would be there as a lucky plus-one. Perhaps I would receive an invitation to visit her family home in Scotland, and would spend an autumnal weekend in her beloved garden – as Nikolai von Bismarck did for this story, shot in and around her beautiful house in the Highlands.
But, like so many fantasies, particularly this year, that one never materialised. Our first meeting, for this interview, had to happen over Zoom – she on a bed prepping a Joanna Hogg film in Wales and me in Notting Hill. Even so, what transpired was something akin to the sublime. It was a meeting more intimate than I could have ever imagined.