A glimpse of Milan Fashion Week 2019
– The runway show was big and long with more than 200 spring looks making their way down the catwalk in the show space akin to a concert venue, under the “Emporio” sign that’s spoken loud and clear for 22 years.
Emporio Armani liberated women from the pre-set schemes of the wardrobe and eased them towards an aesthetic freestyle. Opposites that co-exist in individual combinations: feminine dresses combined with latex-effect leggings.
Micro and macro collides with small bombers over classic suits or big puffy duvet jackets on cute short cocktail dresses. The lengths were captivating; most of the looks had short skirts or wide athletic short pants paired with ultra-high socks boots or just with bare legs that elongated the silhouettes.
The evening itself is a big part of the collection: precious, but the feeling was easy and fresh. White, black, and red are colours of integrity which were used to restore the aesthetic order and purity: embroidered or silk short dresses with bows and belts with the redesigned Emporio Armani signature eagle as buckles. Also, the Emporio Armani initials have been interpreted with street art letterings.
The Max Mara woman, designed by British Creative Director Ian Griffiths, also has the power; she has the energy to seduce while not being afraid of her glamourous side, but combining it with impeccably tailored wide, boxy, and leggy suits.
There was also office workwear and utility workwear with pocketed vests and the wilderness of the zebra decorations came together with masculine tweeds and checks.
The anatomy of romance was the title of the Prada collection. Signora Miuccia divided, instead of mixing, the opposite concepts of horror and beauty.
It was a way to show that both evil and good exist, but neither one wins over the other; it’s just a way to display the two faces of the world in which we are living. On one side, the horror part of the story, with the classic scary comic movie protagonists, printed on tops and dresses, and the military details and boots reminded us of functional war uniforms to recall the fear that comes hand-in-hand with war. The cute part polarized the sense of romance with lace details, delicate and weightless dresses, and silk flowers applied to military wool skirts.
The collection is undeniably beautiful and continues the proposal of the last men’s collection, but the sign does not distance itself from what we saw in the recent seasons and makes us recall when every Prada show was unexpected and trendsetting.